La pura vida

a la playa Tamarindo

It's been one week since I landed in Costa Rica, one week since I had butterflies about surfing, and about being on my own for the duration of 7 days. Albeit, I had little expectations of what I would accomplish during this trip, and every day that I have left that country, I've appreciated it a little bit more.

I wanted to do a retreat for the longest time - since February of this year when I fell distastefully ill with the flu and was bed ridden with little motivation but to become active in a hotter climate. I was researching for yoga retreats and surf camps for months, trying to find the best bargain, the best beach, the most arid climate, etc. etc. I landed upon Witch's Rock Surf Camp by a complete fluke; the surf camp I originally was planning to stay at was closed during the week that I could get vacation off - apparently wet season in Costa Rica (September-October) is not very popular with tourists - but the town was still pretty populated according to my own accounts. This was the competitor that was highly recommended to me, and I went with it. Plus with the incredible price including accomodations, large breakfasts, daily surf lessons, and access to surf equipment totaling under $1000 - it was hard not to pass up. In addition, I found a more amazing flight price upon a last minute search, and I was destined to land and love this little beach town of Tamarindo.

I do this quite often to myself on trips, and departed Toronto with little to few hours of sleep - I had a 6:00AM flight, with a 10:30AM arrival in Liberia, Costa Rica. Taking an hour van ride from Liberia to Tamarindo, located on the north west coast of the Guanacaste region, I was indefinitely smoked with fatigue by the time I received my keys and was ready to unpack and unwind. I was scheduled a surf lesson immediately that afternoon of arriving - mere hours after a long catnap and first delectable Costa Rican lunch of plantains, rice and beans, mahi mahi filet, and salad. 

From day 1, I was impressed with the progress and challenge of each surf lesson. We started with massive 10 ft. foam boards (more buoyancy, easier to balance) and I gradually graduated up to a shorter 8`2 plexiglass board. Coming from a background of snowboarding and a mild feeling for skateboarding, I felt like balance would not pose an issue. Indeed, that were the case - I was popping up with the assistance of my instructor, Maria, and gliding through the whitewater. My greatest difficulty and challenge was actually, paddling while balancing in the middle of your honking longboard - it's like treading with a board between your thighs, below your stomach, something constantly floating between you at all times. That, and turtle rolling and coasting over incoming waves: the cause of many of my bodily bruises and scrapes - it takes a huge toll on your body. We were informed during our on-land surf seminars, that shorter boards (under 7 feet) with pointed noses, are easier to dive with, under the incoming swells, but of course in due time were received with more experience and more practice. 

Three days in, into the surf camp, and the greatest injury with excruciating pain was encountered. Last Wednesday, while catching and riding a really nice wave, the tension on my safety cord must have become taut and pulled the surfboard to land on my head as I was resurfacing from the water. Luckily, I didn't have a concussion or require stitches, but the hour from leaving to water, to sitting and icing my cut up forehead was a little nauseating and relieving all the same. 

The number one, most emphasized rule about surfing is to always cover and protect your head by cupping your forearms and elbows around your face.

 I didn't even have the mere seconds to think - sometimes you are just gasping for air in shortness of breath or after continuous gulps of salty seawater. I mean it did bruise my ego a little more than it bruised my head but I decided from thence on, patience is the greatest virtue to attain from the sea. 

Most of the time at sea is spent waiting for the right waves - it could take you 10 minutes to paddle out, but at times you could be waiting for 20 minutes just to catch a wave. 

With many sports, their conditions can be controlled and tamed. Slopes can be groomed, running shoes can be repurposed, helmets can be equipped, etc. But in the sea, there is nothing but you, the surfboard (and safety cord), and the ever changing elements of the swell of the wave. You will not get better at surfing in two days. The conditions are never the same, the waves are never consistent, and every beach you go to will tell you this differently. You have to be patient and aggressive, move skilfully quick and read the waves mindfully. You have to be incredibly alert, and any moment of fatigue will affect your second to second timing if you will coast, ride, dive into a wave, or get violently thrashed about and get injured afterwards. It is not lack of skill but exhaustion and lack of attention that costs you. 

I miss the fresh coconut juice and tropical fruit smoothies. I miss the accessibility of the beachfront sand dunes for morning runs and tranquilizing walks. I miss the beating sun and tropical rainstorms. Costa Rica is such a lush and dreamy green space - I cannot emphasize enough how maintained they try to keep their ecosystems at equilibrium. There is still so much to explore of the Guanacaste region and the entire Pacific coast of Costa Rica - I will most definitely be back.

For anyone with a dream destination in mind, go for it - travel!! Be wise and you will come back fortuitous with so many learning accomplishments. No one is ever going to pass poor judgment on you if you travel alone - it is actually one of the most liberating and mindful experiences you can take with yourself.

Until the next delectable adventure, I bid you all Adieu.